I had one of those moments this weekend... the moment when I look around and am in awe that where I am and the moment I am in is my life. I think that one of the reasons that I like to travel so much is that I have those moments in much greater frequency than when I am home. Not that home doesnt have its own attractions of course, but I love the feeling of wonder when I realize that I am lucky enough to be living a pretty amazing life.
I was in one of those moments this weekend when I was on Lake Kivu in eastern Rwanda. Lake Kivu is the 6th largest lake in Africa. Although not on par with the great lakes, it is still huge, much too large to see across, much less swim across. It is a lake that was formed by volcanic eruptions and is surrounded by a volcanic range that separates Rwanda from the DRC and Uganda. So basically I was sitting on the white sand beaches surrounded by terraced hillsides, a volcanic range, and within walking distance of the border of the DRC, one of the most complicated and dangerous countries in the world. Within a mile of where I was sitting, there were refugee camps with people displaced from Rwanda and from within DRC, there was a tea plantation, and a five star resort. The juxtaposition of wealth and poverty, of indulgence and deprivation, within such a close environment, creates a sense of surrealism and a great appreciation of even the smallest luxuries.
Anyway, these moments are difficult to translate into words. So for the moment, I am going to abandon the attempt and instead just write about how I ended up there and the random events that took place throughout the weekend...
This past Monday, September 15, was an election day in Rwanda for parliament. Since the genocide, there have been only a few elections and with a very recent history of violence, a location in a somewhat unstable region, and the tendency towards political corruption inherent in ANY political system, elections were taken very seriously by the general populace. So on the election day, basically the entire country shut down and for those of us not able to vote, became a holiday. This weekend also happened to be the annual Gisenyi hash, wherein hashers from Kigali host an international hash event with Ugandans and Kenyans in Gisenyi at Lake Kivu. With such an auspicious event and a three day weekend, how could I not go? Thus, Saturday morning saw Little Linnea rising at 7 am to catch a crowded minibus full of Ugandan hashers to Gisenyi. Well it wasnt quite that easy of course. First, we had to pick up several other hashers at a gas station but then the mini bus which sat probably 26 or 27 people comfortably had at least 40 people and their baggage booked. Which meant that the organizers who had apparently not anticipated this even though they had a list of participants, had to go find a second minibus and arrange to have them drive us for the weekend. Which ended up taking about two hours. Two hours which we spent in the same gas station parking lot buying premade waffles and fried dough.
Finally after two hours and the addition of a mutatu with red velvet seats and an electric blue and pink strobe overhead light, we set off for the lakeside. But it took us a little longer than expected. The thing about hashing is that drinking beer is a pretty integral part of the whole experience. Now, in Kigali we usually save the drinking until after the hash. You know, so we can make it through the hills, precarious bridges, cliffs, banana jungles, what have you. But apparently in Uganda, they operate under an entirely different philosophy because that minibus was full of beer bottles and semi drunk party people about ten minutes past that gas station (actually there was a pretty healthy pile of beer bottles left in the parking lot of said station. Dont worry thats not quite as bad as it sounds. See we left the beer bottles with some kids. Again not as bad as it sounds because they sell the bottles back to the vendors and keep a couple coins in change). Point is, we were on a four hour bus ride with a bunch of people drinking a diuretic. We usually made it a half an hour between pee stops. Very slow going. However, the scenery between Kigali and Gisenyi is breathtaking and the frequent stops allowed for some great views. There is a reason why Rwanda is known as "the Land of a Thousand Hills". And that is because there are probably a thousand hills. Science. I have included some of the pictures I took below. Unfortunately most of the pictures were taken while inside the moving mini-bus and the day was pretty hazy. But the hills go on well past the ability of the camera to capture them. And the greens and blues are more vibrant than you could imagine. Climbing the hills in the mini-bus and looking down into the valleys was both terrifying and exhilerating.
In order to get to Gisenyi, we had to pass by the entrance to Volcanos National Park and the jumping off point for the Gorilla tours. Rwanda is home to the largest population of wild mountain gorillas left in the world. I forget if the entire population is 72 or the population of Rwanda is 72 but in either case, the numbers are staggeringly low. But it is possible to trek through the jungle and watch the gorillas in their habitat for a few hours. My friend Jeri did it and said that it was well worth the 500 dollars. So something else to add to the list...
Anyway, we passed Volcanos and finally, after about six hours for a three hour drive, we arrived in Gisenyi. The hash was scheduled to begin at 4 and we arrived at 3 so we quickly took lunch and dispersed to our various hotels, hostels, and guest houses. After a quick change, we reconvened on Bikini Tam Tam beach and started the hash. A little late but overall not too bad. Hashing is split into runners, the crazy ones who sprint up the hills and then fall/ slide/ run down, and walkers, who take pictures, enjoy the views, and maybe complain a little more about the weird obstable course that we are being taken on. In Gisenyi, par example,
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