This is now the third time I have tried to write this entry. So we will see if I ever actually get around to finishing it...
Last week was the Genocide Memorial week. On the advice of many of my colleagues, I decided to take leave that week and go up to Uganda, not because it is dangerous or anything, just that it is a very sad, very intense time for a lot of people and a lot of people would themselves like to leave. So my friend Leigh and I went up to Lake Bunyoni in southern Uganda for a couple days. We stayed on an island in the middle of the lake in a place without electricity, running water, internet, and cell phone reception and I LOVED IT. It is so easy to get caught up in the sense of immediacy and importance that we have developed as a result of telecommunications. But when you can get away from it, really get away from it, you realize that actually you dont matter all that much and it is ok to take a break. Life will go on without being able to get in immediate and contact. So it was so relaxing to just break off contact with everyone and go hiking around the island, go canoeing (although we kept going in circles which started make me a little sick after a while) and eat a lot of delicious food.
We were there from Saturday until Tuesday morning. On Tuesday I hopped a bus to Kampala, which was one of the more frustrating bus trips of my time here. The driver told us we were leaving "now, now" when we bought our tickets (stupid stupid stupid. I should know better by now) and we ended up sitting in the bus for two hours waiting for it to fill up. Of course the driver left it running the whole time even though there was no heater or air conditioner, flooding the bus with exhaust and inducing an awesome asthmatic cough that I have yet to get rid of, a week later. The driver then proceeded to treat the bus trip as his own personal shopping expedition, stopping at various fruit vendors along the way, judging produce and haggling prices for up to half an hour each time. My favorite may have been when he sent a boy scurrying back and forth between the bus and his fruit stand four or five times to bring different assortments of oranges to him. Ugh...
Anyway after about ten hours (it should only take six) we got into Kampala and I made it to a hostel. Stayed in Kampala for a day and a half but its pretty mundane for most people. I watched two movies back to back and ate thai food. Standard I think for most people but VERY exciting for me. And I had a series of late night conversations with random other expats coming through the hostel about the various state of affairs in the world, economy, gay marriage, stem cell research, the nature of good and evil, legalization of drugs, climate change... I mean you know, those standard light-hearted conversations you normally have with strangers.
On Wednesday night I met up with my friend Lacey, who I lived with in Gulu almost two years ago, and this was really when the trip got going. First, because it was really nice to see an old friend and share our experiences about living and working abroad and second, because Gulu was in a time of rapid change when we were there two years ago and we were both very curious to see what has happened. So bright and early Thursday morning we got a bus to Gulu.
The most amazing part of the trip to Uganda was revisiting Gulu. After two years away, I really had no idea what to expect. Although the peace talks have continued, and there has not been much, if any, reported rebel action in the area, the increasing activity in DR Congo was reason to worry. I thought that perhaps the resettlement process, wherein people were returning home, had been disrupted and that people would still be living in the camps. But as we grew closer to Gulu, there were definite indications otherwise. Many of the camps that had crowded the road the previous year have been abandoned and the store fronts that were previously dirty and crumbling were newly painted. Bars had pool tables and semi-permanent attachments built on to allow for people to linger and enjoy themselves. Sure maybe in a society with rampant alcoholism, encouraging more drinking isn’t the best idea. But, in a place where people have not had any real form of recreation or entertainment in twenty years, the pool tables are a great sign.
Even Gulu itself has changed, although not with signs as significant as abandoned camps. Rather, there are more banks, three or four stories high, and the boundaries of the town have expanded. Rapidly. Perhaps most encouraging, and certainly for Lacey and I, most comforting (quite literally), is the improvements in the roads. Two years ago, the roads were practically impassable. Even in a 4x4 LandCruiser, we would be tossed around in the car like dolls. Some smaller cars would not even take us to For God (where the center is) because they would bottom out their cars too often. This time however, the roads were much improved. Almost completely level with very few potholes or divots. Although that might seem like a relatively insignificant improvement, it actually means quite a bit. The road from Gulu continues to southern Sudan, to Juba. It is the main means of keeping communication and trade open between two very poor regions of the world. Goods can be more easily transported to an area in need of food and basic commodities and people can travel more safely between regions. The poor condition of the roads two years ago was viewed by many people as a physical manifestation of the poor regard that the Ugandan government had of both northern Uganda and southern Sudan. The improvement in the roads can then be regarded as an indication that the government is increasingly interested in improving the lives of northern Ugandans and improving relations with southern Sudan (it also probably has something to do with presidential elections next year. In the traditional anti-Musevini north, it would do him well to woo voters). Whatever the reasons for improvement, there is no doubt that things are getting better and to be able to witness it was extremely uplifting.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Monday, April 13, 2009
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Football
Yesterday I went to the World Cup Qualifying game, Rwanda versus Algeria. Most people didnt think that Rwanda didnt have a chance of winning, and even though they didnt win, they also didnt lose. The game ended up 0-0. But Rwanda was definitely dominating the game, with most of the time spent near the Algeria goal. It was too bad they didnt win, but they definitely made a strong showing.
At first we thought we were going to get rained out. About an hour before, the sky opened up, as it tends to do and poured down a shower. But within a half an hour, the rain was over and the sun was back out so off to the game we went. Where it was packed out with fans ready to watch their favorite team play their favorite sport.
And it was a great game to watch, as much for the game as for the crowd. Aryn and I were sitting right underneath the giant screen, surrounded by Rwandan men, who were alternatively very excited about the game, jumping around, sharing opinions, and waving down people walking in front of us, or very intent, focused completely on the game. At one point, when Rwanda scored (turned out to be offsides), the whole stadium jumped up, screaming and cheering. No one sits by idly at a football game. We were also near the cheering section, which is full of men dressed in yellow, green, and blue outfits with faces painted, flags waving, horns tooting. I dont think there was a minute during the game that they sat or were quiet.
When it was over, we were exiting the stadium, not really by our own free will but by being swept along by the crowd (all men, most in need of a shower) when all of a sudden everyone came to a halt. Aryn and I were smashed together, surrounded by a crowd of men, trying to figure out what was happening. Turns out no one could leave before Paul Kagame did. So until the President left, we were pushed up and down, back and forth, stuck between the contractions of the crowd. Once PK left, the crowd swept out, exploding onto the streets and walking back through town, everyone dressed in blue, green, and yellow and generally proud of their country and their team.
At first we thought we were going to get rained out. About an hour before, the sky opened up, as it tends to do and poured down a shower. But within a half an hour, the rain was over and the sun was back out so off to the game we went. Where it was packed out with fans ready to watch their favorite team play their favorite sport.
And it was a great game to watch, as much for the game as for the crowd. Aryn and I were sitting right underneath the giant screen, surrounded by Rwandan men, who were alternatively very excited about the game, jumping around, sharing opinions, and waving down people walking in front of us, or very intent, focused completely on the game. At one point, when Rwanda scored (turned out to be offsides), the whole stadium jumped up, screaming and cheering. No one sits by idly at a football game. We were also near the cheering section, which is full of men dressed in yellow, green, and blue outfits with faces painted, flags waving, horns tooting. I dont think there was a minute during the game that they sat or were quiet.
When it was over, we were exiting the stadium, not really by our own free will but by being swept along by the crowd (all men, most in need of a shower) when all of a sudden everyone came to a halt. Aryn and I were smashed together, surrounded by a crowd of men, trying to figure out what was happening. Turns out no one could leave before Paul Kagame did. So until the President left, we were pushed up and down, back and forth, stuck between the contractions of the crowd. Once PK left, the crowd swept out, exploding onto the streets and walking back through town, everyone dressed in blue, green, and yellow and generally proud of their country and their team.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
To my mother...
I have emailed you! I dont know you havent been getting them. Please do call. I have been wondering why you havent.
To other people... please feel free to inform my mother of this post.
To other people... please feel free to inform my mother of this post.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
More things I love
1. Minibuses. Lots of things about minibuses. One of the things that I love about minibuses is that you can easily fit 16 people in them. And they are the size of a minivan. So when people say that a mid size sedan is not big enough for a family of five, I will laugh in their face. Another thing I like about mini-buses is when the "conductor" (thats the guy who opens the door while you are still screeching to a halt on the side of the road and closes the door while you are screeching away) is wearing a Spokane YMCA shirt. Little touch of home. Another thing I love about minibuses is when the driver takes it upon himself to decorate it. For example, the spiderman minibus that I rode in last night that had a decal of spiderman and his web that literally covered the car. And the inside upholstery was the same color as the decal. I believe I commented on coordination in a previous list of things I love.
2. When you order fish here, they bring a giant fish. The whole fish. Head to tail. Fried and covered in onions. So good.
3. The absolute astonishment of the staff when I revealed I had a belly button piercing. Lots of grabbing of my shirt and showing it off, pointing, and giggling ensued.
Something I DONT love... Americans preachers coming to Africa to hold rallies preaching that praying to God will cure AIDS. I cannot even begin to explain how detrimental this kind of activity is. I am not trying to say that prayer has no place in a coping strategy, but to tell people that there are documented cases of people being "cured" by prayer is well Im sorry... but its disgusting. It is detrimental to the health, spirituality, and mental well-being of these individuals and puts entire populations at risk by thinking that practicing risky behavior is ok as long as you pray afterward. There is no greater barrier to effective HIV control than evangelists telling people NOT to use condoms, NOT to see doctors, NOT to learn about HIV but just pray pray pray. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!!
I cannot begin to explain how angry this makes me. How can people be so blinded by the belief in "one true god" that they turn a blind eye to what is directly in front of them? Does science have all the answers? Clearly not. Does religion have a place in every society? Yes. But when religion covers the very real experiences of millions of people and touts the miraculous curing of a few (who lets be honest, probably were given the wrong test result in the first place), it is destructive. Pure and simple.
2. When you order fish here, they bring a giant fish. The whole fish. Head to tail. Fried and covered in onions. So good.
3. The absolute astonishment of the staff when I revealed I had a belly button piercing. Lots of grabbing of my shirt and showing it off, pointing, and giggling ensued.
Something I DONT love... Americans preachers coming to Africa to hold rallies preaching that praying to God will cure AIDS. I cannot even begin to explain how detrimental this kind of activity is. I am not trying to say that prayer has no place in a coping strategy, but to tell people that there are documented cases of people being "cured" by prayer is well Im sorry... but its disgusting. It is detrimental to the health, spirituality, and mental well-being of these individuals and puts entire populations at risk by thinking that practicing risky behavior is ok as long as you pray afterward. There is no greater barrier to effective HIV control than evangelists telling people NOT to use condoms, NOT to see doctors, NOT to learn about HIV but just pray pray pray. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!!!!
I cannot begin to explain how angry this makes me. How can people be so blinded by the belief in "one true god" that they turn a blind eye to what is directly in front of them? Does science have all the answers? Clearly not. Does religion have a place in every society? Yes. But when religion covers the very real experiences of millions of people and touts the miraculous curing of a few (who lets be honest, probably were given the wrong test result in the first place), it is destructive. Pure and simple.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Things I enjoy
Here is just a random list of things that I love about Rwanda...
1. Everyone has a cell phone. Ev-er-y-one. So even if you are in the middle of nowhere, climbing up a hill with a couple houses and some goats around you, you know that someone will have a phone, no matter how out of place you may think it is.
2. Everyone answers their phones at completely inappropriate times. For example, at a recent gathering someone was giving a speech and the person to whom he was giving the speech was on the phone. Didn’t stop the speech, didn’t stop the phone call.
3. Matching. It’s almost unbelievable how coordinated women are here. Shoes will match belts will match earrings will match handbags and all of them match the shirt. Imagine a completely sky blue outfit and you’re not far off from my co-workers favorite ensemble.
4. Or the opposite extreme…Complete non-matching. A really bright blue and neon green floral print chetenge (kind of like a sarong) matched with a man’s red and yellow paisley shirt. Stunning.
5. The liberal use of capes.
6. When it starts to rain, the country stops working. Literally. Meetings are canceled, the internet shuts down, buses stop running. You can actually tell someone “I couldn’t do that yesterday. It was raining”. This is in fact a legitimate excuse.
7. Umuganda. This is the monthly “mandatory” community service day. Ask any Rwandan how they spent their umuganda and the answer will be “in bed”.
1. Everyone has a cell phone. Ev-er-y-one. So even if you are in the middle of nowhere, climbing up a hill with a couple houses and some goats around you, you know that someone will have a phone, no matter how out of place you may think it is.
2. Everyone answers their phones at completely inappropriate times. For example, at a recent gathering someone was giving a speech and the person to whom he was giving the speech was on the phone. Didn’t stop the speech, didn’t stop the phone call.
3. Matching. It’s almost unbelievable how coordinated women are here. Shoes will match belts will match earrings will match handbags and all of them match the shirt. Imagine a completely sky blue outfit and you’re not far off from my co-workers favorite ensemble.
4. Or the opposite extreme…Complete non-matching. A really bright blue and neon green floral print chetenge (kind of like a sarong) matched with a man’s red and yellow paisley shirt. Stunning.
5. The liberal use of capes.
6. When it starts to rain, the country stops working. Literally. Meetings are canceled, the internet shuts down, buses stop running. You can actually tell someone “I couldn’t do that yesterday. It was raining”. This is in fact a legitimate excuse.
7. Umuganda. This is the monthly “mandatory” community service day. Ask any Rwandan how they spent their umuganda and the answer will be “in bed”.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Food around the world
Originally i was going to just write about the goat roast that my roommates and I hosted this weekend but just before doing that I got distracted by the following facebook album.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=48101028&ref=profile#/album.php?aid=57521&id=608888964&ref=nf
For those of you unable to access it, it is a series of photographs of families and the food they consume in one week, along with the cost of food. The original website and book review is here: http://menzelphoto.com/books/hp.html.
The photographs ranges from food purchased for 500 dollars in Germany featuring a lot of beer, pizza, and meat products for a family of four to 1.25 in Chad featuring a couple bags of rice and three or four small piles of fruits and vegetables for a family of four. It is an interesting look at the amount of food, amount of money, and amount of necessary nutrients consumed around the world. Although it would make sense that those in the wealthiest countries would have the best diets, it is easy to see based on the pictures why Americans are plagued with heart disease, Indians with diabetes, and English with no culinary skills. For me what was particularly interesting was to look at the amount of fruits and vegetables on each table. Those countries which had the most vegetables and the least packaging also seemed to be the ones that spawn diet fads (Mediterranean diet, japanese diet, french). Coincidence? Or a coincidence that the American family featured on average contributes four times as much garbage to the planet than the European families featured?
I will get to goat roast but I really want people to actually look at this album. I am a huge advocate of eating locally grown, seasonal produce; in other words eating sustainably and healthy, at least most of the time. I encourage each of you to look at it and consider what impact your food choices have on your health, on your wallet, and on the world.
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=48101028&ref=profile#/album.php?aid=57521&id=608888964&ref=nf
For those of you unable to access it, it is a series of photographs of families and the food they consume in one week, along with the cost of food. The original website and book review is here: http://menzelphoto.com/books/hp.html.
The photographs ranges from food purchased for 500 dollars in Germany featuring a lot of beer, pizza, and meat products for a family of four to 1.25 in Chad featuring a couple bags of rice and three or four small piles of fruits and vegetables for a family of four. It is an interesting look at the amount of food, amount of money, and amount of necessary nutrients consumed around the world. Although it would make sense that those in the wealthiest countries would have the best diets, it is easy to see based on the pictures why Americans are plagued with heart disease, Indians with diabetes, and English with no culinary skills. For me what was particularly interesting was to look at the amount of fruits and vegetables on each table. Those countries which had the most vegetables and the least packaging also seemed to be the ones that spawn diet fads (Mediterranean diet, japanese diet, french). Coincidence? Or a coincidence that the American family featured on average contributes four times as much garbage to the planet than the European families featured?
I will get to goat roast but I really want people to actually look at this album. I am a huge advocate of eating locally grown, seasonal produce; in other words eating sustainably and healthy, at least most of the time. I encourage each of you to look at it and consider what impact your food choices have on your health, on your wallet, and on the world.
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